Escape from Harare
We took the 'luxury' coach from Harare to Bulawayo. The journey is 400km & it took about 4 ½ hours. It was uneventful except that luxury does not include air conditioning.
It does, however, include a stop at a roadside motel for a meat paste sandwich & a drink of toxic orange cordial.
Unfortunately no pictures were taken of this important event.
Bulawayo
Bulawayo is Zimbabwe's 2nd largest city. Like most urban areas in Zim, not much is happening there at the moment. It has big wide roads and shops with not much in them.
It has a coal fired power station under a kilometre from the 'CBD', providing an attractive backdrop to the city. Again we neglected to take any photos
We had a look around town & asked in some tour agencies about trips to Khame Ruins.
Then we went to a couple of bars and got drunk with a South African guy who fed us unconvincing stories about some great bars that we needed to get a taxi with him to. We got him so drunk that he wouldn't be able to pull any funny business then hailed our own cab to take us there.
The bar was empty so we proceeded to drive around the city to other bars. The cab ran out of fuel and needed the carburettor filling from a plastic jerry can. It was unimpressive.
We got a pizza & went to bed drunk.
Again we took no pictures as it was all fairly unimpressive, though in hindsight the cab journey was an experience.
Khame Ruins
Khame Ruins is a 'hill fort complex', UNESCO World Heritage site, 23kms from Bulawayo.
It features stone terracing, built by the Torwa people in the 16th Century, and was destroyed in the late C17th by the invading Rozwi people. The terraces are piles of broken granite, retained with dry-stone walling. Some of the retaining walls have decorative patterning.
Senior members of the society lived in huts on top of the hill terraces, while ordinary people lived in huts on the ground.
Tour operators quoted $60ppn for a ½ day trip to the ruins. We organised a cab to take both of us there & back for $50. Lesson: everyone needs money in Zim – don't go through an agency as someone else can always organise it for cheaper.
Escape from Bulawayo
On return from Khame Ali visited the natural history museum, and Alexis took a nap outside in the sun. Following the previous day's disappointing meals we opted for $2 sadza & beef at a beer garden. This was to haunt us later.
More time was killed reading, and then we headed to Bulawayo train station for the sleeper train to Vic Falls ($8 one-way, 1st class).
We were slightly apprehensive when we saw the train – very old (circa 1950s) and with no lights on it. We found our carriage and reserved compartment, got our torches out and waited for it to leave.
The train left 90mins late after the locomotive scheduled to pull the train didn't show up. A good start. After eating our unimpressive take-away fried rice (by torchlight) we just got the sleeping bags out & went to sleep.
Train travel Zimbabwe style
The train took 14 hours to travel 400km. It must be some kind of record. I woke up several times in the night to find the train stopped – apparently engine maintenance was being done.
I don't think I'd do it again, but the train was comfortable enough & very cheap!
One point of interest was seeing a mob of baboons playing across trains at a station. The other highlight was making tea on the trangia in the compartment!
Victoria Falls (or Vic Falls)
Surprised that we had actually got there the first thing we saw outside the station was warthogs nibbling the grass. Nice.
The other thing that you notice is the constant background roar, a bit like background traffic noise, of the falls a couple of kms away.
Our friends through friends Brian and Marlene hosted us at their lovely house in township, and looked after us really well - we owe you guys!
Brian picked us up from the station and took us back to their place where we just chilled and chatted the rest of the day. Township generally seemed in much better condition than similar areas of Harare, everyone on their street had nice gardens, etc.
Vic Falls is a small town, built to cater for the tourist trade centred around the falls and its associated activities along the river. The spaces are modern, clean and well maintained. Due to the dearth of tourists over the last few years, the town is very quiet and like the rest of Zim
times are economically very bad. It is clear from all of the tour booking agencies that it was once a fairly booming place to be.
The town has a really nice vibe to it, in fact it could almost be mistaken for Dunsborough (SW Western Australia) circa 1995 for how quiet and relaxed it felt.
On the outer edges of town are luxury 'safari lodges' – 5* hotels that charge around $350 a night for a double room & upwards. We went for an evening drink at one, which was to be fair, pretty bloody nice with views out over Zambezi national park & a flood-lit artificial watering hole to attract the game for viewing pleasure.
Marlene helped us with booking our activities – bungee jumping, whitewater rafting & the sunset booze cruise on the Zambezi; and the next day they drove us down to the border crossing for the walk to the bungee site.
Bungee Jumping
To say that I was apprehensive about this little jaunt was a major understatement. I had to do it as Ali was doing it, and she was doing it because her brother did it. So Andrew, I was fully blaming you.
Walking out onto the bridge and looking down was a moment of terror about what awaited. It is a very, very long way down. A throng of people were gathered where the jump is at the middle of the bridge, and we walked across to see a couple of young American girls take the plunge. If they did it, we had to do it.
We got our places in the jump queue and got into our harnesses. The nervous fear wasn't pleasant, I could smell it seeping out of my pores. The screams of the people in front of us didn't help. Ali got to go first.
I had had to delay further, to wait for Ali to get back up for the camera. Sitting on the jump platform while the guy strapped my feet up I could hardly feel my body, I felt hollow with fear.
Then it was stand up to the edge, no time to think, 5,4,3,2,1 bungee and I was falling.
The feeling was fantastic – weightless free falling, the water in the gorge just getting closer and no real sensation of what was actually happening. I suppose I could describe it as 'very interesting'.
Then comes the bounce, more falling, a bit of spinning around, and gradually coming to a stop, hanging upside down staring at the river and feeling like your feet are going to slip out of the rope. A guy comes down, attatches you to a harness & you are winched back up to the bridge.
All up, definitely something to do again & glad I did it as its something I have always never wanted to do!
The Falls
The falls are totally amazing and almost incomprehensible. The sight of the volume and the power of the water going over is wild; the spray and the noise that is generated adds to the sensory experience.
The week we visited was the largest water flow over the falls since the 60's. This means more spray, more soaking wet, less view and less photo opps; but my god the volume of the water, g-sus!
Whitewater rafting & sunset cruise
The next day we were out WW-rafting. It was pretty cool, crashing through waves. I would have liked it to be a bit more hectic, but nevertheless it was good fun. Perhaps another trip when the water is lower & the rapids more fierce at some point!
I thought the cruise was perhaps going to be a bit naff, but it turned out to be excellent.
We had all the booze we wanted (though with only Ali & myself, plus a family of 4 it wasn't going to get rowdy); and saw a decent amount of animals – hippo first, then elephant, and some bucks.
A great way to end the day after the rafting.
Pre-school project
Brian & Marlene took us out to the pre-school they had organised to build in a community about 15kms outside Vic Falls. The building was lovely; the only shortage was teachers as the volunteer teachers had gone for 2 weeks collecting thatching grass. They did get some good news that the placement of a permanent teacher had been approved, and they would be starting later this year.
Camping in Zambezi National Park
Now we were really being spoiled. Brian & Marlene took us camping with 2 of their mates to a beautiful spot on the Zambezi river. All there is to say is great laughs, a big fire, stunning location and brilliant people; not to mention the sand-castle building adventures.
Thanks guys, we had a fantastic time!
Road to Botswana & Chobe river cruise
After a night staying at Bruce & Desmore's, including haircuts & vinegar pudding, we hit the road early for the drive to Botswana.
We were fortunate to be driven - the other guys heading over the border to go shopping in supermarkets that actually had a proper array of products. Fortune was still with us, spotting wildlife on the road including lion, sable, impala. Marlene we must get that video of the big cat!
Arriving in Kasane, the gateway to Chobe national park we quickly realised it wasn't such a great place to hang around. To this extent we booked ourselves on another sunset cruise on the Chobe river & made a plan to travel to Maun the next day.
The cruise delivered again – tonnes of animals (literally!); herds of elephant, hippo, crocs, kudu and plenty of birds.
It would have been great to stay in the park, but without having a 4WD and booking the camping spots well ahead of time it isn't really practical.
A quick meal of impala steaks on the trangia & we were off to bed to get up early for a long day of travelling.
Maun & Okavango Delta
The trip to Maun was somewhat painful – 5 hrs on a bus from Kasane to Nata (leaving at 6:30am) along the most potholed road I have ever been down, crammed onto a bus for 25 people with probably 40 on it.
The bus from Nata to Maun was more spacious, but unfortunately it was baking hot & no-one would open the windows (they all seemed to think it was cold)
Maun is southern Africa's fastest growing town. This is due to the plethora of tourists visiting the Okavango Delta. All of the infrastructure is new, new shops, and lots of construction going on.
We stayed a few kms out of town at the Okavango Rriver Lodge. This place was great – nice campsite ($5/n/each), good food, right on the river and Marie who managed it was incredibly helpful. We spent a day chilling out there, and booked our 3 day Mokoro trip into the Okavango Delta through them (~$US100 each).
Mokoro trip
This was the highlight of the trip. We took a mokoro – a dug out canoe traditionally used by the local people of the delta – poled by our great guide Albi.
The mokoros are poled due to the shallow depth of the water in the delta & the large amount of plants and reeds making paddling impractical.
It was a very peaceful way to travel – once you get over the initial jitters of balance & proximity to the water. Albi skilfully poled both of us and our big bag of gear & food through the channels to our destination.
The delta is stunning and traveling by mokoro is beautiful. The vistas are broad, with wide expanses of wetland surrounded by bush. There are lots and lots of birds: a number of different types of storks hunting frogs, fish and snakes; fish eagles and countless others.
Being a wetland the delta is also home to millions of tiny midges (fortunately not the biting type) that swarm above the water. Midges mean food for spiders and one of the unmentioned aspects of mokoro travel are all the spiders that build webs between the reeds to catch the midges. Needless to say you end up covered in midges, spider webs & plenty of spiders sharing the mokoro with you! There is no option to jump around because you are in a highly unstable canoe, so you just have to sit there with the spids!
The mokoro trip took us about 3 hours upstream to an island where we were to camp and head out on game walks. We had a group of 4 women stay with us the first night, and came on the walk in the morning.
Albi got a pretty good deal with us, we cooked up some great meals on the fire, plus snacks & chocolate. The guides must get it pretty good – plenty of good food on each trip they go on!
The morning game walks were brilliant, the one the 2nd morning with just us two & Albi was the best. We saw elephants up close, lion tracks within 100m of our campsite, plenty of zebra, wildebeast, impala, a giraffe in the distance, secretary bird, fish eagles, vultures, warthog, jackal, loads of animal tracks & droppings. Albi was a brilliant guide, really sharp eyes & picking up the tracks with amazing clarity.
We had fun sneaking up on a few animals like the warthogs, the walking itself was good & active and the knowledge that there were dangerous animals around added to the reality of the situation.
Albi's advice if the elephants wanted to check us out – 'walk backwards towards the bushes. If they still come, turn and run into the thick bushes as fast as you can, and keep running into thicker bush'. I'm glad I was thinking the same thing.
Ghanzi & the Kalahari Bushmen
After a long debate as to whether we were going to push on into Namibia and spend a week there we decided to only go as far as Ghanzi (pronounced Hhanzi), on the edge of the Kalahari desert, and visit a project called Trailblazers that runs cultural tourism with Kalahari bushmen and helps the bushmen to maintain their culture.
Trailblazers was lovely – excellent food (really excellent – fillet steak stroganoff, goat curry, etc); we stayed in a bushman style grass hut and they had piping hot showers.
We did a short 'gathering' walk with the bushmen, and they turned up a few bush foods & medicinal plants and told us a bit about them. Their language is one of those that contains lots of clicking and popping sounds, very interesting to listen to. The walk didn't feel at all touristy & their ability to find things where we couldn't see anything was brilliant. It would be great to hear what they would have to discuss with someone learned in Aboriginal bushcraft.
The road back to Zim
We took this in stages and hitched a lot of the way; neither of us wanted to repeat the Botswanan bus experiences if it could be avoided. En route we stayed at Planet Boabab, a very well appointed lodge with camping & huts amongst some massive boabab trees. Ali did a trip out to the saltpans & got massacred by mozzies. I spent the day chilling out & reading.
The architecture of the place was cool – done in a bushmen adobe style, but unfortunately it was all brick & concrete with just a bit of straw mixed into the final layer.
We attempted to hitch from PB to Francistown but the first vehicle to stop was the bus(!); it was a bit of a slog, but we got there & camped at a well appointed place with a great cheese platter, but terrible mains (esp considering the price!)
We got ripped off in the barclays bank in Francistown trying to get dollars (they tried to tell us they had no $US beacause they couldn't be bothered doing the transaction; then they gave us a counterfit note!
Got to the hitching point & took a ride with a miner on his day off who was ferrying people to the border in his pick-up for extra cash.
Through the border with a few questions about why we were coming back here – 'why would any tourist want to spend more than 3 months in Zim?'
Hitched back to lovely Bulawayo, getting in at 3pm. Reluctant to spend another night there we went to the hitching point to Harare and got onto a mini-bus that claimed they were leaving soon to Harare. 'Soon' meant when it was full, 2 hours later. The bus was rammed, freezing & it didn't get to Harare until 11:30. Oh & the driver insisted on playing really bad African r'n'b/ragga really fucking loud and everyone just put up with it. We were the only ones that asked for it to be turned down (which they did) - people seem to have no concept of their rights as consumers here; you paid $15 for the ride, its your bus people!!